The Colorado Springs Gazette final

Cookery draws a crowd, but doesn’t wow

BY ROBIN INTEMANN features@gazette.com

Even at just one page, the menu at The Cookery at Myrtle Hill near Denver’s Washington Park is almost overwhelming with possibilities.

The decision-making process is difficult since so many options are tempting. With scant suggestions from our server, and, after much deliberation, we chose more than we really needed.

Fried chicken and waffles ($17) is a crowd pleaser among my group, making it almost impossible to resist. This version is smothered in sausage gravy. Surprisingly, the dark-crusted chicken held its crunch, but it was dry beneath the chewy coating.

On the plus side, the thick Belgian waffle never got soggy, but the gravy did little to enhance the dish.

Disappointingly, the advertised chipotle-honey maple syrup was lost in the mix. This, like several of our other entrees, was an example of the parts being better than the sum.

For a variation on the above combo, there’s the pork and cornbread waffle ($16.50). Made with cornmeal, it’s hidden beneath spicy pork green chili, house-smoked pulled pork, two eggs, too much melted cheese and diced green onions. The waffle on its own was grainy and slightly sweet in the way of a cornbread muffin. The pulled pork was exceptional, while the green chili was excessive in quantity, not heat level. The cheddar was superfluous.

The breakfast sandwich ($11.50) is simply massive! We added sausage for an extra $4 and wished we’d made another choice such as spinach and tomato ($2) or the house-made chorizo ($4)CQ. The brioche bun was too thick and the numerous link sausages needed more than melted white cheddar for flavor. With so many links on the sandwich, it was easy to share. The sandwich is served with cubed Yukon potatoes, which, frankly, were nothing special.

French toast also caught our eye. Rather than a full order of two slices of challah bread with berries ($11), we ordered one slice ($5.50). This arrived with no berries and only a dusting of powdered sugar. Even without the fruit, this was a good example of what French toast is all about. The thick slice with an egg coating was buttery and focused on the subtly sweet, spongy bread.

The Myrtle Hill hash ($16) features bacon along with a vegetable medley of diced sweet potatoes, butternut squash, peppers, onions and poblano chiles. Topped with eggs and chipotle crema, this was the most cohesive dish of the morning. The smoky, tangy cream sauce nicely augmented the other ingredients.

The Cookery is popular and does not take reservations, so plan to arrive early or expect to wait. The homey décor draws in families, couples and large groups. Its proximity to Washington Park, an easy bike ride or a healthy walk, is an attraction.

The restaurant is also open for lunch and has a full bar and numerous coffee and tea choices. However, what I found more intriguing, and ultimately more appealing, is The Cookery’s sister property a few doors away: Devil’s Food Bakery. It, too, attracts a crowd. Even though the serving sizes of our meals were large, we couldn’t resist picking up a sweet for the drive back to Colorado Springs.

EATS

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2022-09-29T07:00:00.0000000Z

2022-09-29T07:00:00.0000000Z

https://daily.gazette.com/article/282415583163587

The Gazette, Colorado Springs