Recently, rosé has found wide acceptance with the American consumer. Wine industry publications report double- and triple-digit annual growth. And what better time to join the parade than during the heat of summer?

I’m glad to see this popularity focused on dry (or off-dry) wines modeled after European styles, not the heavily marketed, sweet “blush” wines. From a variety of red grapes, expect refreshing, flavorful wines (all here are 2020 vintage), with a profile of a range of bright red and citrus fruits, that drink more like white wines.

Among rosé devotees, southern France is the prime source, particularly Côtes de Provence (made mostly from grenache). The wines below exhibited crisp, delicate, fresh berries and a suggestion of creaminess.

Domaines Ott, whose vineyards overlook the

Mediterranean, is a rosé specialist with a 125-year history. Its Clos Mireille ($58) singlevineyard wine farmed specifically for rosé justifies its price with tangy fruit, citrus, mineral, saline and solid, though elegant, body.

The winery’s BY.OTT ($26) is a blend from estate and local vineyards showing delicate peach, melon,and light spice. Domaine Cala, owned by Los Angeles Chef Joachim Splichal, has produced a savory Coteaux Varois en Provence ($18) with tart red currant, peach, stone,and spice.

Spain gets into the act with Torres’ “Sangre de Toro” ($15), a blend of garnacha and cariñena, with delicate, fresh raspberry. From Portugal, Herdade de São Miguel’s Colheita Seleccionada ($15) blends touriga nacional, aragonez and syrah for a nice tart cherry-strawberry mix.

Most of the rosés in my tasting were from Italy (where it typically is labeled Rosato). From the Veneto is the fresh, focused Scaia Rosato ($14) showing creamy cranberry from the native rondinella variety. From the Marche, the 150 year-old Garofoli farms montepulciano specifically to make Kómaros ($14), a crisp rosato with citrus, mineral and a hint of sweetness.

Li Veli in Puglia offers a fine value “Primerose” ($13) from negroamaro, with brisk, strawberry, raspberry and spice. I especially enjoyed their fresh, juicy, creamy Susumaniello

($21), an ancient indigenous variety they have resurrected.

From Sicily, Poggio Anima’s “Raphael” ($15) blends the ancient, rare zibibbo (aka the aromatic grape muscat of Alexandria) with syrah from two vineyards overlooking the sea. It’s firm and herbtinged with red berries and tangerine.

From Planeta, a family that has farmed in Sicily for five centuries, the nero d’avola and syrah of its rosé ($19) presents spicy red berries and citrus.

Let me close with a special outlier: Germany’s Villa Wolf Pinot Noir ($14) with its bright cherry, fresh raspberry and mineral notes. This estate in the lesser-known Pfalz region dates to 1756 and now is managed by the Mosel’s esteemed Dr. Loosen.